TRICIA STEVENS
PERSPECTIVES
FAROE ISLANDS
The Faroe Islands, nestled in the North Atlantic Ocean, are made up of 18 small islands located between Iceland and Norway. The islands are an independent territory within the Kingdom of Denmark. With rugged cliffs, cascading waterfalls, and picturesque villages, the islands offer a breathtaking backdrop and captivate with their untamed beauty. Nature enthusiasts find solace in the untouched landscapes, making the Faroe Islands a unique and unforgettable experience.
ABSOLUTE MUSTS
Kallur Lighthouse
Located on Kalsoy Island (meaning ‘Man Island’), the Kallur Lighthouse hike does not disappoint! Getting to the island is a quick 20 minute ferry ride from the town of Klaksvik. The ferry fee is 200kr each way (approx. $10CAD) and there are several departures daily. There is the option to drive your car onto the ferry or walk on as a passenger. If walking on, you will be able to take local buses on the island which stop in each village heading north to the final stop in the village of Trollanes. The bus departure schedules align with the ferry departure/ arrival times so it’s an easy option. In my opinion, if you have a car, take the car! It will provide more flexibility however you must arrive early to get in line for the ferry – the maximum number of cars the ferry can take is 12. Luckily, there was not a long line when we arrived 40 minutes prior to departure, so there were no issues (this was in June).
When on Kalsoy Island, drive north to Trollanes where the hike starts. The benefit of having a car is if you head straight to Trollanes, you will beat all the bus passengers to the starting point for the hike. There is no hiking fee required (as of 2023 at the time of writing this). The hike to Kallur lighthouse is 4.8km out and back, and will take about 2 hours to complete. This was definitely a highlight of the Faroe Islands!
Gasadalur Waterfall
Situated in the village of Gásadalur on the island of Vágar, this stunning waterfall cascades down from the rugged cliffs into the roaring North Atlantic Ocean. The waterfall, known locally as Múlafossur, drops from an impressive height, creating a mesmerizing spectacle amidst the dramatic coastal landscape.
What makes Gasadalur Waterfall even more remarkable is its unique setting. Until 2004, the village of Gásadalur was isolated from the rest of the world, accessible only by foot or boat. However, with the construction of a tunnel connecting Gásadalur to the neighboring villages, access to this hidden gem became easier.
Visitors can embark on an easy hike from the village to the viewpoint (no hiking fee required), or for a little more challenge, opt for The Postman Trail which is an historic route following the footsteps of the local postman who, until 2004, used to deliver mail on foot to the isolated village. The hike begins in the village of Bøur and winds its way through rugged terrain, picturesque valleys, and steep cliffs overlooking the North Atlantic Ocean. The hike is approximately 8.4km (out and back) and takes approximately five hours to complete.
Saksun Village
This hidden gem is nestled within the remote landscapes of Streymoy, the largest of the Faroe Islands. Located at the end of a narrow fjord on the northwest coast, Saksun is a quaint and enchanting settlement known for its captivating beauty and picturesque surroundings. The village is surrounded by steep mountains, lush green valleys, and a stunning black sand beach. At the heart of Saksun is the historic church, which dates back to the 19th century. Nearby, you’ll find the renowned Dúvugarðar, a row of traditional turf-roofed farmhouses that serve as a museum, showcasing the traditional way of life in the Faroe Islands.
Saksun is also home to the iconic tidal lagoon, known as Saksunardalur. During high tide, the seawater flows into the lagoon, creating a serene and picturesque setting.
For a short hiking experience, venture out onto the Ut a Lonna trail which take you right down to the lagoon and towards the coastline. The hike is only one hour but be sure to visit during low tide! The hiking fee is 75DKK/ $5CAD and payable at the gate as you start the trail.
Due to its remote location, Saksun has retained its traditional charm and remains relatively untouched by modern development. As a result, it offers a glimpse into the authentic and unspoiled beauty of the Faroe Islands. The area is like stepping back in time, immersing yourself in the raw nature of the islands.
Mykines Island
As the westernmost island, Mykines Island boasts rugged cliffs, rolling green hills, and hidden coves. To get to the island you will need to take a 45 minute ferry. The Mykines ferry typically departs from the village of Sørvágur on the island of Vágar and will cost approximately 150DKK/ $24CAD. Be sure to book your ticket early through the website because these ferries do sell out! Bird enthusiasts are drawn to the island’s bird cliffs, home to puffins, gannets, and guillemots.Hiking along narrow paths reveals breathtaking vistas of the endless North Atlantic. The iconic Mykines Lighthouse stands proudly on the edge, offering a mesmerizing backdrop.
Due to landslides that crossed the path to the lighthouse in October 2021, a portion of the path is closed. It’s best to check current updates on the Mykines Island website before booking your ferry ticket. The island is still worth a visit to see the puffins and enjoy a portion of the trail. The downfall? Mykines MUST be hiked with a guide and the tour price is steep (500DKK/$100CAD per person). The other downfall? Your tour will consist of all 60ppl from the ferry at the same time (surprisingly, they do not divide the groups into smaller, more manageable sizes). This does affect the experience and takes away from the remote, peaceful feel of the island but with a little patience it’s still a great day filled with fabulous views!
Tjornivik
Tjørnuvík is a picturesque village located on the northeastern coast of Streymoy, the largest of the Faroe Islands. Known for its idyllic setting, Tjørnuvík is nestled between steep mountains and displays a stunning view of the Atlantic Ocean. The village is home to charming traditional houses and a close-knit community that preserves its rich cultural heritage. Tjørnuvík is renowned for its magnificent black sand beach, which stretches along the coastline and offers a dramatic contrast against the surrounding green hills. Visitors can enjoy leisurely walks, witness crashing waves, and marvel at the towering sea stacks known as Risin (“The Giant”) and Kellingin (“The Witch”), steeped in folklore and legends. According to the folklore, Risin and Kellingin were sent by the king of Norway to bring the Faroe Islands back to Norway. They set out with a plan to tow the islands by tying a rope around them. Their attempt however was thwarted by the cunning locals who realized the danger and tricked them into believing that dawn was still far away. As the first rays of sunlight appeared, turning the giants and the rope into stone, they were forever frozen in their place.
Tjørnuvík exudes tranquility and provides a captivating glimpse into the natural beauty and traditional way of life in the Faroe Islands.
The Lake Above the Ocean
Sørvágsvatn is a natural wonder located on the island of Vágar. It is the largest lake in the archipelago. What makes Sørvágsvatn truly remarkable is its breathtaking optical illusion. From certain vantage points on the cliff edges surrounding the lake, it appears as though the lake is suspended high above the ocean, creating a surreal and mesmerizing sight. This optical phenomenon is due to the varying elevations of the surrounding land, which creates a visual trickery. The hike is an easy one hour walk each way and the cost to enter the trail is approximately 260DKK ($40CAD). The fee is payable at a small building near a parking lot.
Villingsgardfjall Mountain
This 3-4 hour hike does require a fee of approximately 200kr ($10CAD) and payment is based on the honour system (you will put your money in a box located beside the gate where the trail starts). The hike starts with a gradual incline and then goes through some shale-rock areas which can be tricky. About 3/4 of the way up, the terrain turns into larger rocks (although steep in certain sections, the larger rocky areas provided some more grip). The trail is well marked the whole way with blue poles but I do not recommend this hike if it’s wet. It will be slippery and could be dangerous. The last push to the top is easier (not as steep) and the rewards is a stunning 360 degree view from the top. In all honestly, the view of the Hvannasund Harbour (southern view) is almost better about 3/4 of the way up because Malinsfjall Mountain is cut off slightly. Pushing to the summit is well worth the views of the north side too.
Village of Muli
Situated on the island of Borðoy, at the northern tip is a tiny abandoned (and eerie) village called Múli. In the past, this village could only be accessed by boat or a long hike from the closest town about 7km away. Today there is a one-lane gravel road about 5km long that takes you all the way to the village. Múli became the last village in the archipelago to receive electricity in 1970. It has never had more than 25 inhabitants and the last of the residents left in 1992. The village is one of the oldest in the Faroe Islands and is mentioned in Hundabrævið (the Dog Letter), which was a legal document from the 14th century.
Torshavn
Tórshavn is the capital and largest city of the Faroe Islands. It is a charming and walkable coastal city with a population of approximately 22,000 people. The name Torshavn translates to “Thor’s Harbor,” referencing the Norse god Thor. It has a rich history that dates back to Viking times, and it has served as the administrative center of the Faroe Islands since the 13th century. Visitors can explore the narrow, winding streets of the Old Town, Tinganes, where you will find colorful wooden houses with turf roofs. The Tinganes area is the administrative center of the Faroe Islands and home to the Faroese government.
The city’s architecture blends traditional Faroese styles with contemporary designs, creating a unique and picturesque atmosphere. The harbor area, known as Vágsbotnur, is a bustling hub of activity with fishing boats, yachts, and waterfront restaurants.
For a fabulous take-out fish and chip option, visit Fisk og Kips. For a coffee break, visit Paname Cafe, and for warm fresh baked bread, check out Breydvirkid.
